I have a Ford Fiesta Chicane that broke down a few months ago and required a new engine, so as you do when you want nothing else but to get back on the road, I purchased an engine and had it fitted by the local garage.
The “honest” mechanic got my attention because right now, I need an answer to a question pretty quick and essentially it is a yes/no type of answer.Technical particulars: I have a 1991 3.1 Buick Regal VIN T MPFI vehicle with a emission hose routing configuration of LBP. It appears GM in their wisdom made at least 15 different vacuum hose routing configuration from 1990 1994 for the Regal (also includes Chevy’s Lumina). Anyway, here is the question. To change out the “vacuum harness” (that’s what the mechanic call it, I haven’t found a vacuum harness part) you have to remove the upper intake manifold. Is this true? Is this what GM recommends? I have the vacuum diagram and it looks like to me you don’t have remove the upper intake manifold to install new hoses. Another part that was found bad was the vacuum connection part that plugs into the throttle body. Two of the three hose ports had long longitudinal cracks on the underside of the port. The reason I’m asking is because the mechanic took the upper intake manifold off and snapped off two of the bolts. He wants me to pay extra for drilling them out and installing helicoils. My position is he didn’t need to take the upper intake manifold off to replace the vacuum hoses. So, we are in a dispute and it looks like I’ll have to do the repair I towed the vehicle home. The only hose that looks a little tricky to get to is the one going to the map sensor, but it seems to be accessible to me without removing the upper intake manifold. So, what do you think?
1987 Toyota Corolla hatchback 85,000 miles (I am original owner, so I know history of car). Power steering went bad about a year ago, had the rack/pinion and pump replaced. Steering was on and off for the 6-month warranty period, then got progressively worse, so that last month it made noise on every turn of the steering wheel. It did not make any noise going straight ahead, just on the turns. Also noticed a few drops under the car (power steering fluid). Brought it to another repair shop and they replaced the hose, said it did not need a new pump. Charged $145 for the hose, and 2 hours labor to replace the hose. Altogether $265, plus tax. When I drove the car away, however, it now made a constant whirring noise – going straight ahead, without even turning. This noise was NOT present when I brought it in. Brought it back to the shop, who now said they had to replace the power steering pump and wanted to charge $235 more. Somehow I felt like I was being taken for a ride (no pun intended).
1987 Toyota Corolla hatchback 85,000 miles (I am original owner, so I know history of car). Power steering went bad about a year ago, had the rack/pinion and pump replaced. Steering was on and off for the 6-month warranty period, then got progressively worse, so that last month it made noise on every turn of the steering wheel. It did not make any noise going straight ahead, just on the turns. Also noticed a few drops under the car (power steering fluid). Brought it to another repair shop and they replaced the hose, said it did not need a new pump. Charged $145 for the hose, and 2 hours labor to replace the hose. Altogether $265, plus tax. When I drove the car away, however, it now made a constant whirring noise – going straight ahead, without even turning. This noise was NOT present when I brought it in. Brought it back to the shop, who now said they had to replace the power steering pump and wanted to charge $235 more. Somehow I felt like I was being taken for a ride (no pun intended).
I have a 1989 Plymouth Voyager SE that is having issues with heat. The radiator works fine and the thermostat appears to be working as well since all of the hoses are hot. The heater core is not leaking so we are assuming that it is ok. We have lukewarm heat but it is not quite enough to keep the windows clear of ice. The air conditioning motor keeps coming on and my father in-law is thinking that it shouldn’t be but since we just got the vehicle we are not sure.
Is it kind of soon for my 2000 DTS transmission to be going out? It has 88,400 miles. And auto insurance don’t fix mechanical problems right?
I have a 1998 Plymouth voyager. Recently the red oil light on the top of the dash next to the brake light would come on when I would come to a stop and would start chiming. Once I started driving again the light and noise would go away. I am thinking maybe I have a bad oil sending device. What are your thoughts? The car has 132000 miles.
Our 1996 Jeep was leaking anti-freeze. Our mechanic determined the problem was the radiator and so we paid to have a new one put in. Now, a few weeks later, the car was leaking antifreeze again and on the way to the mechanic it overheated and needed to be towed. The mechanic is looking at it and thinks it may be the head gasket, which he says will be a costly repair. Could this have blown because of him not doing the radiator repair correctly? I don’t want to pay $1500 if the problem could have resulted from his doing the $500 job inadequately.
How do I flush the radiator on my 1994 ford Taurus, and how much antifreeze do I replace?
hey i have a 1994 Chevy k1500 and the transmissions blown. would it be more reliable to have it rebuilt or replace it with a junkyard diamond?