Have you had any experience with a faulty warning light on the dash for a loose gas cap? The dealer says it is a P0440 code. He did a vacuum test, and it showed that there weren’t any leaks. The car is a 2001 Buick LeSabre and it has a new Delco gas cap.
I have a 91 Mustang 5.0 installed in a kit car. It seems to run fine but the catalytic converters get red (literally) hot in under 3 minutes. I have checked the timing (10 degrees BTC), changed the distributor and mass air flow sensor. Any suggestions on where else to look?
I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota truck, 64K miles, has had a complete tune up…Problem is that the motor seems to “surge” at times…more when using cruise control but some also when not using cruise….Seems more often when going up a hill but at times on level road. The RPM will move from 1500 to 2000, or from 2000 to 2050, etc….I have had it at the Dodge dealership 3 times and they cannot find the problem…When they drive it, the problem doesn’t occur…You don’t feel it when driving around town but on a long trip you feel it off and on…Can you give me some insight as to what the problem could be?
I drive a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix gt a transverse engine (side mounted).i know the front valve cover is seeping but I think the rear is a leak.but I’m not sure the reason I believe it is, is that I smell a burning odor when its running and I noticed oil around the oil pan and running down the back of the motor I’ve had the rear main seal and oil pan gasket replaced a year ago.. what do you think?
I am hoping you will be able to advise me on what else I can do to fix my problem. I have a 1993 Chevrolet Corisca, 6 cylinder 3.1 L MFI.One of the bolts that connects the overflow or is it a bypass from the water pump broke as I was removing it to change the worn gasket. I recently purchased this car from someone who has all the repair records. The water pump is fairly new. The bolt was either cross threaded or overtightened is my best guess, because the other bolt came out easily. I started to drill it out to use an easy-out when a guy in my neighborhood said he knew what to do to & could help me fix it. I was not able to watch him as carefully as I should have. He ended up slamming a tap beside the broken bolt & said he had fixed it & left. I was able to remove the tap & have been trying to drill out this bolt to no avail.
I have a 1990 Honda Accord that runs just fine. A few weeks ago I started noticing the tachometer bouncing around and the gears jerking. The mechanics said it was probably nothing, but then one night the car just stopped going in the middle of the road and the engine, oil, and battery light all came on. I turned off the car and a minute later turned it back on, and it started going again. This happened to me a few night later, but the mechanics again ran every diagnostic test they could and said they could find nothing wrong with my car. Do you have any idea what might be going on with my car?
I have a 1998 Dodge Neon with only 54,000 miles on it. Recently it started hesitating alot and now it stalls when turning corners, especially to the right. I took it to a local garage and they ran diagnostics and said I needed to take it to a Dodge dealer and have a new computer put in and flash programmed. I did that and yet, it continues to do the same thing when turning corners. I was then told to have the power steering pressure switch replaced. I did that as well. Low and behold, I still continue to have the problem with stalling and no one seems to know what the problem is. Can you offer any suggestions ?????
I saw your answer to someone below after searching for a good block sealer: “If they DO suspect a blown head gasket or cracked block you might want to try a can of KW Engine Block Seal additive you can buy at your local auto supply. Drain out the coolant, add the can of additive to your radiator and drive the car for about 500 miles, then drain out the water/additive and install the proper mix of coolant and water to the radiator.
I saw your answer to someone below after searching for a good block sealer: “If they DO suspect a blown head gasket or cracked block you might want to try a can of KW Engine Block Seal additive you can buy at your local auto supply. Drain out the coolant, add the can of additive to your radiator and drive the car for about 500 miles, then drain out the water/additive and install the proper mix of coolant and water to the radiator.
I was wondering if you could help me out with my car. I just had the motor rebuilt 8 mo ago and my problem is when I go to start my car in the mornings it makes this real loud ticking noise different from a lifter it is a lot harder and stronger that started about 3 weeks ago then the other day I hit a bump and it sounded like someone was taking a sledge hammer to my engine or something it is very loud you must turn the engine off and sit for a few minutes before it is ok again and it is starting to do it on every bump I I hit