You will have some fluctuation of the temperature gauge as long as it is in the normal range I would not be too worried about it. If its out of the normal range, then we might have a problem.

Few things come to mind. I would want to dig deeper to determine if the engine IS in fact running hot, or is this a gauge issue?

1. The gauge is not getting the proper signal from the Temperature Sending Unit (not temperature sensor…different part). The sending unit screws into the engine and measures the coolant temperature and sends that info to the dash gauge. These parts dont usually fail often on Toyota, but could be a problem on yours. You can test the sender, but to be honest replacing it is cheaper and faster than testing it sometimes.

2. When does the engine appear to be running hot? If at freeway speeds, then I would suspect a restriction in the radiator and radiator replacement is needed.

3. If the engine appears to run hot at stops or idle speeds and with the A/C on, I would suspect you have a problem with the electric cooling fan motor up near the radiator.

4. If you already replaced the radiator…..cant remember if you said you did or not. I would make triple sure you do not have an air pocket in the cooling system. Sometimes you have to “bleed” the system to get all the air bubbles out after a major part replacement. Best thing to do is visit your local fast lube place and ask them to make sure there are no air bubbles in your system.

Hope this helps

Just got back from my mechanic. His son pressure tested my coolant system. He believes my 360 is leaking out of a freeze plug inbetween the block and tranny. He told me to try a bottle of ‘Barleak Heavy Duty Stop Leak.’ The black gooey kind, but not the aluminum or copper.

Do you think I should give the KW a try?

I’m getting a lot of conflicting advice, so I’m tentative. I discussed the problem with a friend who’s a mechanic at a Dodge dealership and he said, “never put any of that %$#@ in a coolant system.” I’ve also read on the net of horror stories and people strongly advicing against using coolant system sealant.

I would drain out the sealer and go back to a 50/50 coolant mix and pray real hard.

The copper flakes in the sealer will create a permanent seal if things work correctly. If not, you MIGHT have to do things over again, but by the report you give I would suspect success.

It was flooding itself on a regular basis and no one could figure it out. My friend/mechanic said compression was ok. Always started right up if left only a few minutes but longer than that, it was hard if not impossible Then it just started to get worse. Eventually it was always flooding itself and white plumes of smoke would come from the exhaust at startup and it would idle rough for a few seconds (also I have to mention sound of swishing liquid under the dash??) The clincher was when it overheated one day and we discovered all the coolant had leaked out (though it wasn’t a really fast leak). I did some looking on the web and decided I would try your method since I can’t afford the headgasket repair right now.

My mechanic drained all my coolant and flushed it and then we put the K and W stuff in. It’s still in the car right now and I’m at 600 miles. Ok, so it has not flooded since the day I put it in! I took in on the highway for 2 hours the day I put it in. The next day, the car started with no problems. I have not flooded the car since. White smoke is gone, no coolant leakage and swishing sound from under the dash is gone (what the heck is that?). The car is driving. I can take it anywhere and know it will start no matter how long it sits.

I do have a question about if it’s better to leave it in even longer? And also it’s brutal hot summer weather right now and I was wondering if I should wait for it to cool a little before draining the sealer. Just to ensure that it seals properly? Thank god for this site and your advice because I’m sure I’d be stuck in the garage still otherwise!( I should add my mechanic had to ground a wire to the coolant sensor too because that was malfunctioning and causing the car to flood. but even after this was fixed the car kept flooding itself)