Blown Head Gasket

blown head gasketHow do you know if you have a blown head gasket or not? Did your mechanic tell you that your engine over heating problem was due to a blown head gasket or some other internal engine leak? How do you know he is right? Do you spend $2,000 just because he says that is the problem? What tests should you recommend your mechanic do and what questions should you ask?

I made this short video talking about my recommended head sealer. I would love to hear your comments below about this video. Did it help you? Were you bored? Would you like to see more videos like this on this site….instead of having to READ my articles? :) Thanks!

Posted in: Head Gaskets

32 Comments on "Blown Head Gasket"

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  1. John says:

    Two questions regarding issues with a Ford 5.0L 302 V-8. After applying sodium silicate to resolve a blown gasket problem, I have had a mixed bag success. The lifters are now somewhat “sticky” (clacking sound). Can that be resolved? Second Q: Overheating water (little geiser) under throttle body just above valve cover. What broke? Thanks.

    • Austin Davis says:

      I would check oil pressure with a manual gauge, if ok, try adding a can of Mystery Marvel Oil additive to the crankcase and see if that quiets the noise. I would then get a cooling system pressure test to look for external coolant leaks causing overheating, and radiator restriction causing overheating. Head gasket failure was due to overheating and was a symptom, not the cause…find and repair the cause.


    RE: YOUR directions for K&W Block Sealer (blown head gasket). After exhaustive research I have decided to go with your expertise. But I do need some clarification because I want to follow YOUR directions to a T. Questions: Regarding the INITIAL mix of K&W Block Sealer with water, what’s the exact amount water to use? (equal amount, 1 quart, 3 quarts?).What extent will the “milkshake”(coolant/oil)already in engine effect the sealer? Oil change BEFORE sealer application? Thanks.

    • Austin Davis says:

      How ever much water it takes to completely fill the radiator, no set amount. if the oil is milkshake looking, change it now, its not good to continue to drive with water in the engine oil.

  3. Pamela says:

    I am planning to use the K&W Block Sealer (orange can) for a crack in my head gasket. My water pump has a small leak in it but my car is not overheating (the cause of the overheating was the fan relay now working). I was thinking about using the block sealer first following your instructions and driving the 500 miles (about a week or two of driving). Then after that I will drain the radiator, change the water pump, and timing belt. Is this a bad idea? Should I change the water pump before using K&W?

    The main reason I would like to wait on changing the water pump is in case I end up needing to replace the head gasket. I don’t want to have to do all the work again. Thank you for any and all help.

    • Austin Davis says:

      You should replace the pump first, then pressure test the cooling system again to make sure there are no other leaks. I would drive it awhile after the pump has been replaced and see if you still need/want to use the sealer.

  4. Ronna D says:

    Hi. I have an 09 dodge journey. My car keeps sporadically running hot. I had the radiator replaced about 3 years ago and have replaced the thermostat multiple times. Recently after a long trip the cars engin sounds horrible and it doesnt seem to have as much power. I have noticed that the coolant sometimes bubbles back up into the jug. It has a rough idle. I am constantly having to add coolant. And sometimes the heater will not work and it will run hot then. Please help. It is a head gasket or maybe the heater core? I have not seen any moisture in the passenger floorboards. It tends to run hot when idoling or stop and go traffic. When you get going good the temp usually goes back down to the middle line.

    • Austin Davis says:

      You need to get a cooling system pressure test to determine if you have an internal (head gasket) or external (hose, or water pump etc. etc). Kinda sounds like you have a leak and are low on coolant causing the overheating, and overheating can cause loss of engine power/performance. Keep me posted.

  5. Kyle says:

    Mustang GT 4.6.. Was loosing coolant with no sign of exterior leak and refilling radiator cosistantly.. now missing on no. 8 cylinder according to scantool.
    Got the K&W in the metal can.. the block seal.. flush, flush, flush, flush and added the can. Right now I have about 30 miles on the car.. driving easily. The car is in the driveway idling and I will likely let it idle for another 30 to 45 minutes or so. Flushed until clear and a bit more for good measure.
    Could you share different timeframes for it to take effect?

    • Austin Davis says:

      Sounds good so far, right? I usually advise my customers to leave the sealer in for 500 miles before draining out. Give it the best chance possible to take effect, when it does its a permanent seal.

  6. frank says:

    My 2003 IS300 is overheating. At 1st the colling fans were not working so I was running the air condition so the a/c fans would overide the cooling fans and kick on. It worked, but then this morning it overheated and looks like the water is fizzling or boliing out the top part on the back of the engine. Could this be a blown head gasket?

    • By Austin Davis says:

      No probably not. I would get a cooling system pressure test to find the leak. I would assume the coolant you see boiling is where the leak is and your radiator is low on coolant causing the overheating

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